September 25, 2003
>Are Those My Brains On Your Knife?: Eating Guinea Pig
Three years ago I was thrust into an initiation, of sorts, in order to be accepted as a member of my surrogate Ecuadorian family. My inebriated host uncle cracked open a roasted guinea pig skull like a pistachio nut, dug...Read this update
September 12, 2003
>The Count Who Was Afraid Of Heights
"Vamos Conde," (lets go Count) I whisper to my horse as he stops again as a result of his timidity to steep rocky declines. From where I´m sitting, on the back of a horse with heavy donkey ancestry, and on...Read this update
September 11, 2003
>Notes From Horseback: A Real Vaquera
At 27, Rene alrady had four children, one boy and three girls. Her son was actaully the young guide who had escorted us to the horses. I told her I was surprised that at her age she already had four...Read this update
September 07, 2003
>Bus Business
Bus Business: A middle aged man stood up in front of the bus headed from Quito to Otavalo. Dressed in black denims, a black dress shirt, and a flattened ball cap, he addressed the passengers. "Hello ladies and gentlemen," WHAM,...Read this update
September 05, 2003
>Pick My Brain & My Pockets
Day One: Mile 2.6 My first 2.6 miles of walking the country, and I unknowingly fund a pickpocket. We will soon be crammed onto a trolley car that shuttles sardine-like passengers from old town to new town. We wait at...Read this update
September 04, 2003
>Flying In: Airports and Hostels
I wish I could say that at 5:00am today, the morning I leave for Ecuador, the adrenaline took the place of caffine. I wish I could say I was confident in packing for three months of travel. I wish I...Read this update
July 30, 2003
